Парфюмерия мен косметикалық құралдар технологиясы сессия сұрақтары

1.Medical and cosmetic products (perfumery and cosmetic): general characteristics. Nomenclature of cosmetic preparations. The principles of their classification. Regulations. Perfume and cosmetic products are understood as products or products intended for application to various parts of the human body or without auxiliary means. Cleaning them, giving them a pleasant aroma , changing their appearance and correcting body odor, or protecting them, keeping them in good condition. Perfume and cosmetic products are divided into two groups: 1. Decorative products are lipstick, mascara, eyebrow and eyelash pencils, shadow, Makeup, Powder, nail care products and much more. 2.Medical and hygienic products include lotions, creams, tooth powders, pastes and elixirs, hair lacquers and dyes. Requirements for the production, storage, transportation and quality control of perfume and cosmetic products established by sanitary regulations: Storage of medical and cosmetic products should be carried out on shelves, protected from light, away from heating devices, at a temperature of + 6-25 ° C and a relative humidity of 55-70%. Shelf life-4-18 months. Principles of classification of cosmetic preparations : Functional activity: hygienic, cosmetic, decorative, defender, therapeutic and preventive measures, special. Consistency: Liquid, Emulsion, gelatin, fat, wax, powder. Purpose: skin care products, hair care products, decorative cosmetics.

2.Requirements for packaging and labeling of perfumery and cosmetic products. Packaging of perfumes and cosmetics is done for safety and protection from external factors. In accordance with paragraph 4 of Article 242 of the Code of the Republic of Kazakhstan dated July 7, 2020 "On the health of the people and the healthcare system", the following should be reflected on the packaging or label of the products: name; the purpose of the product (if it cannot be determined based on the name); data that the product is manufactured for use by children; the country in which the product was manufactured; the name of the organization that is authorized by a foreign manufacturer to accept claims on the quality of goods and other related to the products sold; the mass or volume of the product. It is allowed not to reflect such data on the probes; tone or color (if the product is a coloring or toning agent); data on the presence of sodium fluoride in the composition; information about the period after which the products will cease to be usable; date of manufacture; information about special storage conditions, compliance with which is necessary to maintain the quality of the product throughout its shelf life; precautions; batch number; list of ingredients (according to the recipe). According to the requirements of the TR, the list of substances included in the product is displayed in descending order – from more to less. A mandatory stage preceding the sale of products is the conformity assessment procedure, which is carried out in the form of declaration or state registration (depending on the type and purpose of the product). After passing the quality and safety assessment procedure, the products are necessarily marked with a single circulation mark on the EAC market. The application of such a mark is carried out on each unit of goods before direct release into sale. The presence of a single sign on the package without a document confirming the conformity of the manufactured product with the requirements of the TR CU is a violation of the law.

3.Studies of the effectiveness and safety of cosmetics in humans. Ethical, technical and regulatory requirements for products. Ethical requirements. Ethical considerations are an integral part of any biomedical research involving humans. Studies of methods for assessing the condition of the skin and testing cosmetics on humans are similar to biomedical research. They include the use of people as research objects for basic and applied scientific purposes. Studies of cosmetic active ingredients and finished cosmetic products should be conducted in accordance with the principles of the Helsinki Declaration and GCP; national regulations regarding human research should also be taken into account. Efficacy testing should only be carried out if there is evidence that the product is safe for use on volunteers, and safety and security should always be "jointly tested" as a secondary goal when studying the effectiveness of cosmetics. As a consequence, the efficacy study should be preceded by a thorough safety assessment of each cosmetic ingredient in the product and a safety check (for example, patch testing, light reflection testing, etc.) in order to exclude local or systemic adverse reactions. The development of the research protocol should minimize the risks associated with the use/application of the product(s) and the protocol procedure. An analysis of the benefit/risk ratio should be carried out during the development of the research protocol. However, unlike studies conducted for therapeutic purposes, these studies should be conducted only if the risks are absent or minimal. The main types of research used in the field of testing the effectiveness of cosmetic products include: 1) studies of organoleptic properties; 2) consumer studies; 3) expert studies and 4) instrumental measurements.

4.Basics of designing and equipping the production of perfumery and cosmetic products related to melting, cooking and cooling.

5.Perfumery products. General characteristics. Classification. The principles of creating perfume compositions.

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. All types of perfumes consist of aromatic concentrate, alcohol and water and differ only in the ratio of these components.   In the composition of perfumery, a small content of dyes and antioxidants is allowed, which do not in any way affect the smell of the perfume.  The concentration rates of fragrances for different types of perfumes in different countries are different, but always fluctuate within certain limits. Classification of perfumes:  According to the consistency of perfumes, there are liquid, powder-shaped. By the nature of the smell, floral and fantasy perfumes are distinguished. According to the purpose, perfumes are divided into women's, men's, universal, children's, and according to the method of packaging, perfumes are isolated in regular and aerosol packaging. There are also deodorant perfumes and perfume creams.

6. Quality control of perfumery products. Quality control of perfumery products is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the interstate standard GOST 17237-93 "Liquid perfumery products".According to organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters, perfumes must meet the following requirements: appearance; color and smell; odor resistance; transparency; fortress; the sum of the mass fractions of fragrant substances. The sum of the mass fractions of scented substances in Extra perfumes, perfumes, Extra colognes and toilet waters is determined periodically, at least once a quarter, in colognes and scented waters - in case of disagreements in the evaluation of the quality of products, in the same cases, the stability of the smell is controlled. Warranty period of storage: Extra perfumes, Extra colognes, toilet waters - 15 months; perfumes, colognes, scented waters - 12 months from the date of manufacture.

7.Auxiliary and biologically active substances in modern cosmetics. Biologically active substances (BAS) are substances contained in medicinal plants and capable of influencing biochemical processes in the human and animal body; i.e. substances contained in medicinal plant raw materials that determine its therapeutic and/or preventive effect. Vitamins, infusions and extracts of medicinal herbs, enzymes, protein hydrolysates, synthetic products, etc. are used as biologically active substances in cosmetics. 55-Auxiliary substances-are additional substances that are used in the production and manufacture of dosage forms to give them the necessary properties.  Classification: Classification of biologically active substances contained in medicinal plants: Alkaloids Glycosides Tannins Flavanoids Essential oils Resins Saponins Vitamins Various organic acids Trace elements, etc. Of the excipients used in the technology of medical and cosmetic products, the following groups are distinguished: 1. Solvents. 2. Natural and synthetic fats. 3. Natural waxes. 4. Polyalcohols. 5. Sterols. 6. Hydrocarbons. 7. Substances that lower surface tension. 8. Fragrant substances. 9. Gelling agents. 10. Preservatives.

8. Basic requirements for auxiliary and biologically active substances. Basic requirements for auxiliary and biologically active substances: 1) compliance of the medicinal product with its medical purpose; 2) the values used must be biologically harmless and biocompatible with body tissues and at the same time not have allergenic and toxic effects; 3) compliance of the mold-forming properties of the prepared dosage form. Excipients should give the dosage form the necessary properties: structural-mechanical, physico-chemical and therefore provide bioavailability. Organoleptic properties of medicinal substances that should not affect excipients ( - ): taste, smell, color, etc. 4) absence of chemical or physico-chemical interaction with medicinal products, packaging, as well as the material of technological equipment during the preparation of medicinal products and their storage. A decrease in effectiveness, which can be the result of various interactions, and even in some cases the manifestation of toxic properties of the drug. 5) depending on the degree of Conformity, the product must be clean. Excipients are sometimes the main source of microbial contamination of medicines. 6) availability.

9.Cosmetic lotions. Characteristics of the main components of the formulation of cosmetic lotions. Lotion - a liquid cosmetic, usually containing(контэйнинг) agents(эджентс) for softening the skin, especially that of the face or hands. Lotions can be used for the delivery(дэливери) to the skin of medications such as: Antibiotics(антибайотикс), Antiseptics; Anti-acne agents; Soothing, smoothing, moisturizing or protective agents (such as calamine); Anti Allergens. It is made on the basis of an aqueous or water-alcohol solution with the addition of active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, acids) and auxiliary components (essential oils for fragrance, dyes, preservatives). The lotion cleanses, moisturizes and softens the skin, narrows the pores.

10.Technology of preparation of lotions. Technological process. A typical oil-in-water manufacturing process may be: Step 1: Add flake/powder ingredients to the oil being used to prepare the oil phase. Step 2: Disperse active ingredients. Step 3: Prepare the water phase containing emulsifiers and stabilizers. Step 4: Mix the oil and water to form an emulsion. (Note: This is aided by heating to between 110-185 F (45-85 C) depending on the formulation and viscosity desired.) Step 5: Continue mixing until the end product is 'completed' Step 6: Packing, packaging, marking of the finished product.

11.Quality control of cosmetic lotions.  Quality control of cosmetic lotions. Appearance(апиэрэнс) transparent (транспэрент) liquid. Colour: depending on the composition. Smell: depending on the composition. Hydrogen indeх: pH 1,2-8,5. The guaranteed shelf life(шэлф лайф) кепілдік мерзімі of lotions is 12 months. Test methods: 1. The appearance, color of lotions and tonics packaged in transparent vials is determined by viewing the vials with liquid in transmitted or reflected daylight or the light of an electric lamp after turning the vial upside down two or three times. 2. The color of products packed in opaque vials(оупэйк вайлс) is determined by viewing a sample in the amount of 20-30 cm3 in a glass. 3. The smell is determined by the organoleptic method. 4.The dry residue in alcohol-free lotions (tonics) is determined by the gravimetric method. The method is based on drying the sample. 

12.Preparation of infusions of aromatic substances. Fragrance  is a pleasant smell(аромат) (scent-запах). Aromatic substances are extracted from vegetable raw materials using solvents: water or alcohol, since some substances are poorly soluble in water, but well in alcohol. This is especially true for essential oils, which have a high saturation of aroma.  Flavors are divided into:according to the aggregate state - liquid, powdery, pasty, emulsion.    Production technology; Production preparation-3% solution of hydrogen peroxide with 0.5% detergent; 1% solution of chloramine; 1% solution of degmine. with these substances, we disinfect the entire territory and prepare employees for work. Preparation of raw materials, materials, intermediates- after  measuring the required amound of material, it is mixed with water vapor in a device for distillation. Obtaining coriander fruit alcoholic water- Pre-soaking of raw materials, in the amount of 10 g and crushed raw materials in a mixture of 10 ml of alcohol and 100 ml of water, placed in a distillation flask,  In the process of distillation, a flask with raw materials are heated in a boiling water bath.  Packing, packaging of the final product of production- Packing of finished products is carried out in bottles of 100 ml. On the table for packing. Sticking labels with the name of the product in Russian and Latin, batch number, quantity, expiration date.

13. Cosmetic soaps. Cosmetic effect and mechanism of action of toilet soaps. Nomenclature and characteristics of raw materials used in recipes toilet soaps. Soap is a detergent for hygienic cosmetics or household chemicals, the main component of which is a water-soluble sodium or potassium salt of saturated fatty acids (for example, sodium stearate) - the product of the interaction of alkali with natural or synthetic fatty acids. Classification of soaps By the method of obtaining: Adhesive Sound Epilated. For the intended purpose: Household Toilet rooms Technical Medical. By product form: Solid Liquid Pasty. The cosmetic effect of soap is cleansing, softening, moisturizing, flavoring and deodorizing action. Soap related to anionic surfactants has the ability to lower the surface tension of water, providing a washing, foaming and wetting effect. The mechanism of action of soap will be considered on the interaction of the soap micelle with a dirt particle, which can be represented as a particle surrounded by a fat film. The dirt particle enclosed in such a shell moves towards the hydrophobic laminar chain. Chemically, the main component of solid soap is a mixture of soluble salts of higher fatty acids. These are usually sodium, less often potassium and ammonium salts of acids such as stearic, palmitic, myristic, lauric and oleic. The classic basis of toilet soap is sodium salts of aliphatic acids of coconut oil and beef fat, taken in the ratio (15-25). The fatty acid composition of soap is decisive in providing the required qualitative and physico-chemical parameters, the main of which are: hardness, uniformity, solubility, foaming and washing ability

14. Technology and quality control of toilet soaps. Technological process. The technology of toilet soaps. Saponification of neutral oils is carried out with caustic potassium, and neutralization of fatty acids is carried out with potassium carbonate. The soap base is cooked hot in a clean boiler For soap mobility, 0.6-0.9% potassium carbonate is injected into it before the end of cooking. After adding all the fats and potassium carbonate, the contents of the boiler are boiled for about 2 hours to obtain a transparent glue and the disappearance of foam. Then a sample is taken and sent to the laboratory for analysis. The finished base for liquid soap contains no more than 0.2% unsaponified fat, 0.05-0.1% free caustic alkali and 0.6-0.9% carbon dioxide alkali. The base is pumped into a mixer, if necessary, water is added and then ethyl rectified alcohol and perfumes are introduced at a temperature no higher than 35 °.  The resulting water-alcohol solution of soaps is thoroughly mixed and the content of fatty acids is adjusted to the level established by the normative analytical documentation.

15. Cosmetic products for foaming purposes. Shampoo formulation and research principles. Function, characteristics, nomenclature of dyes and fragrances as part of shampoos. Shampoo- for cleansing the hair and scalp and caring for them.  Shampoo - one of the main and most common hair care products, is a mixture of several substances. Water is most abundant in shampoos, followed by surfactants. Also in the composition are used preservatives, flavors, inorganic salts. Dyes are used to achieve harmony with the appearance, packaging and aroma of the product.  Shampoo composition: Water, Surfactant, Foaming agents, Thickeners, Conditioning additives, Acidity regulators, Medicinal Supplements, Dyes, Conservatives. CLASSIFICATION OF SHAMPOOS 1. distinguishable by appearance: liquid, creamy, jelly-like, dry, 2. designed for different hair types: for normal hair, for colored hair, dry hair, for oily hair, for damaged hair, for curly hair, for any type of hair, for mixed type of hair;  3. subdivided according to gender and age: male, family, children;  Principles of research:Study of the foaming ability of shampoos, Determination of pH of shampoos using indicator paper, Washing ability, 4 oil detection, 5 detection of glycerin, Water detection, Detection of magnesium ions, Detection of stearic acid, Determination of chloride content in the test samples of shampoos, Determination of emulsifying ability

16.Qualitycontrolofshampoos. Shampoo - one of the main and most common hair care products, is a mixture of several substances. Appearance. Liquid or homogeneous gel-like mass. A slight precipitation(прэсипитэйшн) is allowed. Colour. Characteristic of the color of the shampoo of this name. Smell. A pleasant, characteristic shampoo of this name. Hydrogen ion concentration index (pH) -  3.5-8.5. Mass fraction of anionactive substance, % - 3-20. Mass fraction of dry matter, %, not less than - 7.0 The appearance is determined visually in a transparent container at a temperature of 22 + 2 ° C. The color is determined visually in comparison with the control sample at a temperature of 22 + 2 ° C in test tubes with a diameter of 15 to 44 mm. The smell is determined organoleptically at a temperature of 22 + 2 ° C The mass fraction of the anionactive substance is determined by the titrimetric method. The mass fraction of dry matter is determined by gravimetric method

17.Cosmetics for hair care. Characterization of the components of the formulation of subsequent hair care products. 

Hair cosmetics includes a variety of care products that have different functions, purposes of application and characteristics. Shampoo(rinsers) - for cleansing the hair and scalp and caring for them. The purpose of hair masks is to intensively moisturize and strengthen the curls, restore their strength and shine, promote regeneration, and also protect against adverse environmental influences. The two main components of any shampoo are water and surfactants (surfactants), they account for about 50-80% of the composition, the rest are various additives: thickeners, preservatives, silicones, flavors that improve the properties of shampoo, and natural components like oils and extracts.Balsam is a hair care product that is designed to restore them and is used after applying shampoo. 

2. Hair and scalp care products for functional purposes are divided into the following groups: scalp care products; hair washing and hair care products; hair coloring products: Depending on the origin: natural (henna, basma) and chemical; By color fastness: unstable, relatively resistant, resistant; A separate group consists of hair bleaching products. hair styling products and hairstyle preservation. Rinses and balms are classified: - depending on the condition of the hair: for normal, oily, dry, damaged, colored, thin and brittle hair, for hair after perming; - depending on the release form: liquid, creamy, gel-like; - depending on the action: anti-dandruff, strengthening, 

 Characteristics of the components of the formulation of hair care products The scientific principles of the development of formulations, as well as the assessment of the condition of hair and skin, include the latest physical methods that are constantly being developed and improved. To ensure the quick and convenient use of cosmetic preparations for hair care, leading Western companies produce disposable and special "salon" shampoos, which, in addition to a mild action, a good conditioning effect, provide accelerated drying of the hair.

18. Technology of cosmetic products for subsequent hair care. Balms. Rinsers.  The technology of balms-rinses is determined by the physico-chemical properties of the components of their composition. The BO technology of the most common creamy release form includes the stages: 1. Preparation of raw materials. 2. Preparation of a balm (rinse aid): - preparation of the oil phase at a temperature of 60-70 ° C; - preparation of an aqueous solution of cationic surfactants (60-70 °C); - emulsification; - introduction of pH regulators (45 °C); - introduction of non-aqueous solvents (40 °C); - introduction of BAS, fragrance, pearl additives (40 °C); - intermediate quality control. 3. Packing, packaging, labeling of the finished product. The technology of preparation of gel-like and liquid balms and rinses is similar to the technology of liquid and gel-like shampoos.

19. Quality control of balms and rinses according to the requirementsregulatory and analytical documentation. Quality control of rinses and balms Balms and rinses are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation, according to technological tools and recipes approved in accordance with the established procedure. According to organoleptic and physico-chemical parameters, they must meet the requirements and norms. The guaranteed shelf life of balms and rinses is 12 months from the date of manufacture. Test methods 1. The appearance and color of rinses and hair balms are determined by the organoleptic method, by viewing a sample applied to a plate or paper. 2. The smell of rinses and balms is determined by the organoleptic method, applying the product in an even layer 1-2 mm thick on a plate or paper. 3. Colloidal stability is determined by centrifugation. The method is based on the separation of the emulsion into fat and water phases during centrifugation. 4. The hydrogen index is determined potentiometrically, having previously dissolved 20.0 balsam or rinse aid in 80 ml of water. The method is based on measuring the potential difference between two electrodes (measuring and comparison) immersed in the test sample. 5. The mass fraction of water and volatile substances is determined by gravimetric method. The method is based on drying the sample.

20. Cosmetic creams. Characteristics and principles of formulating cosmetic creams. Technology. Stages of the technological process. Cosmetic cream-is a body care product in the form of an ointment-like mass with the addition of active substances.

Modern creams are classified: by composition: 

- fatty (the creamy state of which is provided by a complex of fats and fat-like substances);

 - emulsion (creamy state is determined by the presence and ratio of fats and water);

 - suspension (the creamy state is provided by the consistency of the dispersion medium and the concentration of the solid dispersed phase);

 - combined (suspension creams in which emulsions are used as a dispersion medium);

 - fat-free (creams that do not contain fats and fat-like substances in their composition). by appointment: 

- hygienic (including special purpose creams);

 - therapeutic and preventive; 

- decorative. by consistency: 

- liquid;

 - actually creams;

 - thick. 

Characteristics of emulsions as dispersed systems. Principles of stabilization of emulsion cosmetic creams Emulsions are called coarse heterogeneous systems consisting of immiscible liquids, one of which in a finely dispersed state (dispersed phase) is distributed in a continuous dispersion medium. 

Technology of emulsion cosmetic creams Emulsion cosmetic creams in accordance with the regulatory and technical documentation must have long-term stability in the temperature range (foreign production - from +40 to - 10 ° C, domestic - from +25 to +5 °C; shelf life of domestic creams - 12 months, bio creams, liquid creams - 6 months). These requirements can be implemented technologically through the process of emulsification and homogenization. The optimal particle dispersion of emulsion creams is 1-2 microns. Creams, the dispersion of which exceeds 2-3 microns, are characterized by dullness, coarseness, and a tendency to delamination. Creams, the dispersion of which is significantly lower than microns, are characterized by increased sensitivity to low temperatures. The emulsification process is carried out using special equipment (reactors, homogenizers) equipped with rotary stator, roller, colloidal mills, various agitators and scrapers. If necessary, the width of the gap of the dispersing gap can be adjusted in the rotary stator homogenizer, as well as the number of revolutions of the mixer, which allows for targeted control of the homogenization process. 

The technology of production of emulsion creams of the m/v type provides for the following operations: -preparation of the aqueous phase; - preparation of the oil phase; - emulsification; - cooling; - introduction of thermolabile BAS; - perfuming; - packing and packaging of cream. Technological operations of the cream production process of the v/m type: -preparation of the water phase; - preparation of the oil phase; - emulsification; - cooling; - introduction of thermolabile BAS; - perfuming; - plastic processing; - packing and packaging of cream.

21. Suspension creams. Characteristic. Recipe. Technology. Stages of technological process. A feature of suspension cosmetic preparations is the use as a dispersed phase of solids that are insoluble in water and fats and are called fillers.

 Depending on the purpose of the cosmetic, fillers are called: 

- abrasives if they perform the function of mechanical cleaning (skin, tooth enamel, etc.);

 - physical light filters (sunscreens) and sorbents (cleansing and protective creams) if they perform a protective function.

 Cosmetic creams based on suspensions are classified by:

 - intended use: hygienic (cleansing, protective), therapeutic and preventive, decorative; 

- areas of application (skin and its appendages); 

- the form of release (creamy, gel-like, pasty). 

Due to the crystallinity and sufficiently low dispersion, the active substances of this nature provide:

 1. Mechanical rejection of the horny scales of the outer layer of the epidermis, providing a cosmetic effect of cleansing gels, scrubs, creams, masks. 

2. Due to the high specific surface area and insolubility in water and fats, most substances of this nature are able to adsorb skin secretions, thereby cleansing, freeing it from excess secretions and contributing to accelerated absorption of biologically active components of the formulation. 

Preparation of gel-based suspension creams includes the following operations: 

- gel preparation; 

- preparation of powdered raw materials;

 - introduction of powdered components into the gel base;

 - introduction of BAS; -

 - perfumed creams; 

- homogenization of the cream;

 - packing and packaging of the finished product. 

Investigation of the quality of cosmetic creams Cosmetic creams are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation, according to technological instructions and recipes approved in accordance with the established procedure. According to organoleptic and physico-chemical indicators, they must comply with the requirements and standards given. Specific values are given in the regulatory and technical documentation for each name of the cream. Cosmetic creams are stored in dry rooms with a relative humidity of no more than 70%, at a temperature not lower than + 5 ° C and not higher than +25 ° C. 

Test methods The appearance of the color of cosmetic creams is determined by viewing a sample placed in a thin, even layer on a slide or a sheet of white paper. Uniformity - the absence of lumps and grains is determined by touch by light rubbing of the sample. The smell of creams is determined by the organoleptic method. Methods of control of cosmetic creams can be divided into physico-chemical and chemical. Physico-chemical methods provide for the determination of such indicators as stability, pH, type of emulsion, consistency. These indicators characterize the consumer properties of cosmetic creams. Chemical methods of analysis-they allow you to determine the components that make up the creams.

22. Fat creams; Cosmetic vaselines. Characteristic. Cosmetic effect. Recipe. Technology. Currently, fat creams have lost their positions I comparison with emulsion and fat-free creams due to their low cosmetic effectiveness. The scope of their application in cosmetology is mainly limited to use as a dispersion medium in suspension creams. The action of fat creams is based mainly on the action of fats, therefore, when developing formulations of such creams, special attention is paid to the properties and quality of fats and fat-like substances. The cream should be "soft and gentle". These signs determine not only the organoleptic and consumer properties of the cream, but also ensure the cosmetic effectiveness of the drug. The recipes of some bases for fat creams are given. 

Preparation of fat creams consists of the following operations: 

- fusion of components; 

- cooling; 

- perfuming cream; 

- standing; 

-plastic cream treatment; 

- packing and packaging of the finished product. 

A special group of cosmetic preparations are cosmetic vaseline, which are used to soften the skin of the hands and face, as well as-to protect it from atmospheric influences. In order to increase the viscosity of vaseline and protect it from the appearance of effusion droplets over time, 10-20% of purified petroleum is added. Vaseline is produced as an independent product and in the form of fragrant or boric vaseline, which are used to soften the skin and facilitate the sliding of fingers during massage. Formulations of vaseline are given. Boric vaseline contains 0.5-2% boric acid as a disinfectant, 98.5-97% vaseline and 1% fragrance. Fragrant vaseline consists of 99% vaseline and 1% fragrance. The technological process of production of cosmetic vaseline is similar to the technology of fat creams.

23. Quality indicators and control methods for cosmetic creams. Cosmetic creams are flavored products designed to soften, nourish, moisturize, refresh and protect the skin. The control methods of cosmetic creams can be divided into physical-chemical and chemical. Physicochemical methods provide for the determination of indicators such as stability, pH, type of emulsion, consistency These indicators characterize the consumer quality of cosmetic creams. Quality control of cosmetic creams Appearance - Homogeneous mass, free of impurities Color - Inherent to the color of this cream Smell-Inherent to the smell of this cream Mass fraction of water and volatile substances. % -5.0-98.0   5.0— 98.0 pH value pH-5.0-9.0

24. Cosmetic masks. Definition. Characteristic. Cosmetic effect. Classification by the object of application, action, form of release. A special group of cosmetic preparations consists of cosmetic masks. In accordance with "Perfumery and cosmetic products. Terms and definitions" cosmetic mask -means. for intensive skin and hair care in the form of an emulsion, gel, powder, etc., intended for whitening, nutrition, stimulation, etc.

 Cosmetic masks are classified: 

according to the level of exposure - epidermal (mechanical cosmetic masks); 

- transdermal (cosmetic masks of physiological action); 

by appointtment: - cleansing; 

-moisturizing;

 - regenerating; 

- nutritious;

- binders; 

- tonic;

 - plasticizing;

 by type of skin: - masks for oily skin care

 - masks for dry skin care;

 - masks for normal skin care; 

according to the form of issue: - pasty;

 -liquid;

 - gel

 - like;

 - creamy;-powdered,

 Masks have a more intense effect on the skin compared to other cosmetics: some masks soften the skin, nourish, others absorb skin secretions, have degreasing and astringent effects, contribute to the exfoliation of horny scales, have a whitening effect. Masks have a toning and firming effect, increasing the elasticity of the skin. Most masks activate the blood circulation of the skin and improve its nutrition. Considering the intensity of the action and the short duration effect, masks are recommended to be applied no more than 1-2 times a week. The exception is soft cream masks, which can be used daily. The nomenclature of auxiliary substances depends on the purpose, the cosmetic effect of masks is due to a plex of physico-chemical parameters that determine the form of release of this cosmetic product. Fats can be used as a basis (animal vegetable and mineral high molecular high-molecular compounds, including starch, gelatin, lecithin, pectins, natural resins. The basis also includes various powdery substances, for example, white clay, zinc oxide, magnesia, talc, oatmeal (oatmeal), almond bran, etc. 

The technology of cosmetic masks is determined by the form of release and is similar to the technology of cosmetic preparations of the corresponding form of release.

25. Technology of cosmetic masks and scrubs. Cosmetic masks- are a product used for skin care to achieve a cosmetic or therapeutic result. They are applied to the skin to care, moisturize, nourish, soften, regenerate or otherwise. Technology. The first stage is the preparation of the mask components: grinding and calcination of bentonite clay at a temperature of 85-90 ° C for 10-15 minutes; pasteurization and clarification of curd whey. Crushing chamomile flowers and sterilizing them with UV rays.The next stage is fermentation of crushed chamomile flowers in clarified curd whey. Fermentation is carried out at a temperature of 30 ± 0.5 ° C for 9-10 hours. Preparation of the cosmetic mask is carried out according to the recipe: cedar oil, glycerin, surfactants and other components are added to the fermented whey mixture with bentonite clay according to the recipe.  The resulting composition is controlled by microbiological parameters (OHMS, BGCP), by physico-chemical parameters (pH 20% of the composition, amount of dry matter in%, viscosity, c). Next, microbiological control of ready-made dry cosmetic masks, physico-chemical control is carried out. The product is packaged in foil bags. Shelf life is 6 months at a temperature of 22 ± 0.5 °C. Scrub is a cosmetic product with an exfoliating effect (abrasive effect) designed to exfoliate keratinized cells from the surface of the skin, thereby contributing to its natural renewal. The technology of cosmetic scrubs is determined by the form of release and the type of dispersion medium (emulsion, gel) and is similar to the technology of cosmetic preparations of the corresponding release form.

26. Deodorant cosmetics. Their characteristics, classification and mechanisms of their action. Deodorant cosmetic - the product masks, softens or completely neutralizes the smell of sweat. It contains disinfectant components that destroy bacteria and their waste products, and perfumes. Classification. Deodorants are divided into two main categories by the mechanism of action: deodorants and antiperspirants. Deodorant eliminates unpleasant odors - blocks the reproduction of bacteria. In its composition, you can find bactericidal components: powerful triclosan, farnesol, which acts softer than triclosan and does not cause irritation, as well as alcohol — it destroys bacteria, but dries the skin. There should also be caring substances that prevent irritation: plant extracts, essential oils, vitamins, moisturizing components. An antiperspirant is a product designed to block the production of sweat, thereby preventing the appearance of a specific odor. This blockage occurs due to the organic salts of zinc or aluminum that are part of the product. According to the form of release there are 6 types:  According to the form of issue: Aerosols (sprays);  Spray (aerosol) Despite the shortcomings, it is in demand due to its low price. Perfectly refreshes in extreme heat. Does not leave a film on the skin or marks on clothes. Dries instantly. Liquid (roller); Roller Equipped with a dispenser-ball, with which the liquid is easily applied to the skin. Convenient format. Well absorbed. When used correctly, it does not leave marks on clothes. Low consumption. Dries for a long time. Forms a thin film. The alcohol contained in the composition dries the skin. Creamy;  Gel-like;  Powdery (powders); Talc (powder) Compared to other forms, it is not very convenient but safe type of deodorant. Can be used not only for armpits. Ideal for oily skin. It crumbles, leaves white marks on clothes. Not recommended for dry skin. Solid (stick). Pencil (stick) The compressed product is placed in a case with a "wheel". This compact format is ideal for travel and commuting. Dries quickly. Suitable for sensitive skin. Very economical consumption

27. Characteristics of biologically active and active substances used in the composition of deodorants. Common formulations for deodorants include the following active ingredients: Aluminum salts (aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, and others) – used as the basis for almost all non-prescription (everyday) antiperspirants. The aluminum  physically prevents sweating. Bactericidal products such as triclosan (TCS) and parabens kill bacteria on the skin. Alcohols and related compounds such as propylene glycol – these products can have both drying and bactericidal effects. Methenamine (hexamethylenetetramine, also known as hexamine or urotropin) is a powerful antiperspirant, often used for severe sweat-related issues, as well as prevention of sweating within the sockets of prosthetic devices used by amputees. Acidifers and pH neutral products – deodorants that prevent bacterial action by enhancing (or at least, not depleting) the skin's natural slight acidity, known as the acid mantle, which naturally reduces bacterial action but can be compromised by typically alkaline soaps and skin products.Masking scents – other strong or overriding scents of a pleasing type may be used, used to mask bodily odors. Typically these are strongly smelling plant extracts or synthetic aromas.

28. Quality control of deodorizing cosmetics. In accordance with the technical regulations, the quality control indicators to be checked for antiperspirants are: appearance, color, smell, viscosity, mass fraction of chlorides and density.  The appearance and uniformity of products with a liquid consistency and packaged in transparent vials are determined by viewing the vials with liquid in transmitted or reflected daylight or in the light of an electric lamp after turning the vial upside down two or three times.  The color of products with a liquid consistency, as well as the appearance and uniformity of products packed in opaque vials, is determined by viewing the sample in a glass against the background of a sheet of white paper in transmitted or reflected daylight or the light of an electric lamp. The smell of liquid products is determined by the organoleptic method using a strip of thick paper moistened approximately 30 mm by immersion in the analyzed liquid. The viscosity is measured using a viscometer. A potentiometric automatic titrator is used to measure the chloride content. Density is determined either by pycnometric method or using an automatic density meter.

29. Cosmetics for the care of the oral cavity and teeth. Classification and nomenclature of drugs for the care of the oral cavity. Cosmetic products for oral and dental care are represented by tooth powders, pastes and elixirs. Taking into account the direct intensive effect of these drugs on tooth enamel and mucous membranes, the following requirements are imposed on them: - harmlessness; - chemical and pharmacological indifference; - the presence of a neutralizing ability in relation to the acids formed in the oral cavity (mainly lactic) that destroy tooth enamel; - sufficient abrasive properties (for toothpastes and powders). Toothpaste is a cosmetic product for hygienic care of the oral cavity and teeth based on a suspension of abrasive-polishing materials in water-glycerin solutions of gel-forming and surfactants. DENTAL ELIXIRS Dental elixirs are cosmetic preparations for oral care, which are water-alcohol solutions of biologically active substances that have anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, regenerating and deodorizing effects. Dental elixirs are classified according to their intended purpose into hygienic, having a cleansing, refreshing, deodorizing and whitening effect, and therapeutic and prophylactic, having an antitumor, antiparadontosis effect. TOOTH POWDER Tooth powder is a personal hygiene product of the oral cavity, designed to clean teeth from food residues, plaque, etc. Tooth powder is chemically precipitated chalk with or without active additives.

30. Active, auxiliary and biologically active substances used in the composition of toothpastes, elixirs and powders, characteristics. he main components of the toothpaste formulation are: abrasive, gel-forming (structure-forming), moisturizing, foaming, biologicall active substances, as well as flavorings, fresheners, flavorings, preservatives. Abrasives are substances that provide a cleansing, polishing effect of pastes without damaging the tooth enamel. As abrasives, chemically precipitated calcium carbonate. Gel-forming substances (thickeners, hydrocolloids) are introduced in order to create the necessary consistency, increase the sedimentation stability of the paste, optimize the polishing and cleaning effect. Hydrocolloids of both natural and synthetic origin are used. Moisturizing agents (plasticizers) - glycerin, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, xylitol, castor oil are used in toothpastes to obtain a plastic, thixotropic mass, easily squeezed out of the tube, and to prevent the drying of toothpaste during storage. Surfactants (alizarin oil, sodium salts of alkyl sulfates, etc.) stabilize the mass of toothpaste, contributing to the dispersion of abrasive solids and preventing the formation of their agglomerates, have a wetting and foaming ability. In order to ensure the therapeutic and preventive effect of oral and dental care products, biologically active substances are used that provide: 1)anti - caries action: 2)agents that promote the remineralization of tooth enamel: sodium monofluorophosphate, sodium fluoride.  3)agents that inhibit the deposition of tartar: - sodium and potassium tripolyphosphates; - surfactants (sodium lauryl sulfate, three- loksan). Bactericidal properties of oral and dental care products are provided by the introduction of bacteriophages, antibiotics, chlorhexidine gluconic acid. Deodorizing additives: essential oils, menthol, camphor, etc.

Characteristics of substances used in the composition of dental elixirs. The main components of dental elixirs are: rectified ethyl alcohol, drinking water, non-aqueous solvents, biologically active substances, flavorings. Alcohol is added to mouthwash not to destroy bacteria but to act as a carrier agent for essential active ingredients such as menthol, eucalyptol and thymol which help to penetrate plaque. Biologically active substances (plant extracts, essential oils, vitamins, hormones, trace elements, enzymes, etc.) determine the therapeutic and preventive effect of dental elixirs; prevention of tooth enamel caries and inflammatory processessen; remineralization of tooth enamel; provide dilution and removal of plaque, elimination of hypersensitivity of teeth. Characteristics of substances used in the composition of dental powders. In addition to the main component – calcium carbonate, clay, sodium carbonate or aluminum chloride, flavorings and other related substances are introduced into the product in the form of additives. For example, sea salt - actively fights bacteria and accelerates tissue regeneration. Dry crushed herbs, eliminate bleeding, disinfect, refresh the oral cavity, relieve gum inflammation. Essential oils of mint, eucalyptus, for example, act as antiseptics. Copes well with bacteria and eliminates bad breath - cinnamon.

31. Technological stages of the production of toothpastes, elixirs, powders.Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentifrice used with a toothbrush to clean and maintain the aesthetics and health of teeth. Technology of toothpastes The technological process of preparing toothpastes is determined by the type of dispersion medium used as their basis, andconsists of the following main stages: 1. Preparation of raw materials. 2. Preparation of toothpaste: - preparation of a mixture of thickener and humidifier, dispersion (10 min); - adding water and getting gel (15-20 min); - introduction of abrasive, homogenization (25-30 min); - introduction of aromatic substances, sweeteners, flavorings, dyes, preservatives; - introduction of detergents under vacuum, homogenization (20 min); - homogenization, deaeration (15-20 min); - quality control; - "maturation" of the paste (5 days). 3. Packing, packaging, labeling of the finished product. Dental elixirs is a hygienic cosmetic product for the care of teeth and gums, as well as for refreshing the mouth and throat. Technology of dental elixirs The technology of preparation of dental elixirs includes the following stages 1. Preparation of raw materials (screening and weighing of raw materials, preparation of solvent). 2. Preparation of dental elixir, including the following operations: - introduction of biologically active additives of auxiliary substances into the solvent - defending; - filtering. 3. Bottling, packaging, labeling of the finished product. Dental powders are agents used along with a toothbrush to clean and polish natural teeth. Technology of preparation of dental powders It includes the following stages: I. Preparation of raw materials (screening and weighing of raw materials). 2. Preparation of tooth powder: - preparation of a mixture of abrasive and fragrance; - mixing of powdered mass; - sifting. 3. Packing, packaging, labeling of the finished product.

32. Quality control of toothpastes, elixirs, powders according to the requirements of the AND.Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentifrice used with a toothbrush to clean and maintain the aesthetics and health of teeth. Quality control of toothpastes Toothpastes are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 7983-2016 "Toothpastes. General specifications" according to organoleptic and physicochemical parameters, toothpastes must comply with the requirements and standards given. The guaranteed shelf life of toothpastes is 12 months from the date of manufacture. Test methods 1. The appearance, color and smell of toothpaste is determined by organoleptic method, applying a small amount of paste to a smooth a glass plate or a sheet of white paper. By light rubbing, the absence of grains is established and at the same time the color and smell are determined. 2. The taste of toothpaste is determined by the organoleptic method. 3. Determination of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate is carried out by titrimetric method. 4. Determination of the amount of heavy metals is carried out by photoelectrocolorimetric method. 5. The hydrogen index is determined in a 20% aqueous suspension of toothpaste by the potentiometric method. хх6. Determination of the dynamic yield strength and plasticity coefficient Dental elixirs is a hygienic cosmetic product for the care of teeth and gums, as well as for refreshing the mouth and throat. Quality control of dental elixirs. Dental elixirs are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST R 51577-2003 "Liquid oral hygiene products". The shelf life of dental elixirs is 12 months from the date of manufacture.

Test methods 1. The appearance and color of dental elixirs is determined by viewing vials of liquid in passing or reflected daylight or the light of an electric lamp, turning the bottle upside down two or three times. 2. The smell of dental elixirs is determined by an organoleptic method using a strip of thick paper measuring 10 × 160 mm moistened by approximately 30 mm immersion in the analyzed liquid. 3. Taste determination, 15-20 drops of dental elixir at room temperature are added to 100 cm' of water. The taste of the resulting solution is determined by the organoleptic method. 4. The concentration of ethyl alcohol is determined by an alcohol meter. It is allowed to determine the density of the dental elixir with a pycnometer. The result obtained is translated into a conditional strength according to the "Tables for determining the content of ethyl alcohol in aqueous alcohol solutions". 5. The determination of the hydrogen index (pH) is carried out by a potentiometric method or using a universal indicator paper. Dental powders are agents used along with a toothbrush to clean and polish natural teeth.Quality control of dental powders  In accordance with the requirements of GOST 5972-2017 "Tooth powder. General specifications" according to organoleptic and physicochemical parameters, dental powder must comply with the requirements and standards given.  Test method 1. The determination of the appearance is carried out visually by scattering 1 g of tooth powder on a smooth, smooth glass plate. 2. Color determination is carried out by scattering 20 g of tooth powder on a white plate with a thin layer 1-2 mm thick and comparing it with the color of tooth powder prepared according to an approved recipe. 3. The smell and taste of tooth powder are determined organoleptically by comparing with the smell and taste of tooth powder prepared according to an approved recipe. 4. Determination of the residue after sieving. 20.00 g of tooth powder is sifted through a sieve No. 014K (1890 rel. / cm2). Sowing is carried out with a light pressure on the tooth powder with a soft hair brush. The tooth powder should pass completely. 5. The mass fraction of calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate in terms of calcium carbonate is determined by the titrimetric method.6. The mass fraction of free alkali in terms of calcium oxide, one and a half oxides of iron and aluminum is carried out titrimetrically

33. Products of decorative cosmetics. General characteristics. Appointment. Classification. Nomenclature. Decorative cosmetics are cosmetic products such as make-up used to decorate and change the appearance. Examples of decorative cosmetics could be: make-up, carnival make-up or professional make-up (theatrical).  Cosmetics for decorative purposes are classified:  for the care of the facial area: eyelids (eye shadow, contour pencils, kayals, eyeliners, liners); eyelashes (mascara); eyebrows (pencils, eyebrow mascara); cheeks (blush); red lip rims (lipsticks, lip gloss, contour pencils); - faces in general (powder, foundation creams, primer). By the nature of the dispersed system: - homogeneous systems (true solutions) - paints; - heterogeneous systems: powders (powder, blush, eye shadow, etc.); According to the form of issue: - pasty (mascara for eyelashes and eyebrows); gel-like (hair gels); - shaped: compact (eye shadow, blush, powder); bruskovye (mascara for eyelashes and eyebrows); in the form of a pencil (eye shadow, lipsticks); in the form of a rod (lipsticks, eyeliners). Nomenclature. The nomenclature for use in the ingredient declaration is set out in the cosmetic inventory, known as INCI (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients). INCI /International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients/ is an international system for labeling ingredients of cosmetics. The main purpose of this nomenclature is to enable people suffering from allergies to clarify the presence of harmful and unsafe components in cosmetics before buying. Ingredients of Cosmetics for decorative purposes for skin care. According to the main types of raw materials used for its manufacture, decorative cosmetics are subdivided into products on a fat wax basis, powdery and compact, on emulsion and polymer bases. Appointment of decorative cosmetics.  correction of defects on the face; highlighting and enhancing attractiveness by emphasizing eyes, lips or a delicate oval face; creating a completely new image. General characteristics. The concept of decorative cosmetics includes a whole range of tools that allow you to improve and change your appearance. It includes cosmetic products capable of: align the tone of the face, hide minor flaws give the skin a glow or a matte finish; ocus on individual elements of the face. Products of decorative cosmetics. Blush is a product of decorative cosmetics on  an oily basis, powdery or compact, designed to  give the skin of the Face a certain color and  shade. Eyeshadow is a powdery or compact oil-based  make-up product designed to tint the eyelid  skin to add shine and expression to the eyes. Eyebrow shadow is a product of decorative  cosmetics on an oily, powdery or compact basis,  designed to give eyebrows different color  shades. Lipstick is a decorative cosmetics product intended for coloring lips; Mascara for short-term coloring, thickening and  lengthening of eyelashes, giving them volume and a clear  shape

34 Technological stages of production lipsticks. Main indicators of their quality control. Lipstick is a cosmetic that applies color, texture, and protection to the lips. Raw Materials. The primary ingredients found in lipstick are wax, oil, alcohol, and pigment. Wax enables the mixture to be formed into the easily recognized shape of the cosmetic.
Fragrance and pigment are also added, as are preservatives and antioxidants, which prevent lipstick from becoming rancid.
 The Manufacturing Process. The manufacturing process is easiest to understand if it is viewed as three separate steps: melting and mixing the lipstick; pouring the mixture into the tube; and packaging the product for sale Melting and mixing 1 First, the raw ingredients for the lipstick are melted and mixed—separately because of the different types of ingredients used. One mixture contains the solvents, a second contains the oils, and a third contains the fats and waxy materials. These are heated in separate stainless steel or ceramic containers. 2 The solvent solution and liquid oils are then mixed with the color pigments. The mixture is stirred for several hours. 3 After the pigment mass is ground and mixed, it is added to the hot wax mass until a uniform color and consistency is obtained4 If the fluid lipstick is to be used immediately, the melt is maintained at temperature, with agitation, so that trapped air escapes. If the lipstick mass is stored, before it is used it must be reheated, checked for color consistency, and adjusted to specifications, then maintained at the melt temperature (with agitation) until it can be poured Molding 5 Once the lipstick mass is mixed and free of air, it is ready to be poured into the tube. A variety of machine setups are used 6 The melted mass is dispensed into a mold, which consists of the bottom portion of the metal or plastic tube and a shaping portion that fits snugly with the tube. Lipstick is poured "up-side down" so that the bottom of the tube is at the top of the mold7 The lipstick is cooled (automated molds are kept cold; manually produced molds are transferred to a refrigeration unit) and separated from the mold, and the bottom of the tube is sealed.
 8 For obvious reasons, rework of the lipstick must be limited, demonstrating the importance of the early steps in removing air from the lipstick mass. Lipstick is reworked by hand with a spatula. Labeling and packaging 9 After the lipstick is retracted and the tube is capped, the lipstick is ready for labeling and packaging. Labels identify the batch and are applied as part of the automated operation. 10 The final step in the manufacturing process is the packaging of the lipstick tube. Main indicators of their quality control. Quality control procedures are strict, since the product must meet Food and Drug Administration (FDA) standards. Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this. Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some numerical way to control the shades of lipstick. There are two special tests for lipstick: the Heat Test and the Rupture Test. In the Heat Test, the lipstick is placed in the extended position in a holder and left in a constant temperature oven of over 130 degrees Fahrenheit (54 degrees Celsius) for 24 hours. There should be no drooping or distortion of the lipstick. In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders, in the extended position. Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at 30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures. The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then checked against the manufacturer's standards. Since there are no industry standards for these tests, each manufacturer sets its own parameters.

35. Cosmetics for decorative purposes for skin care.  osmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics designed to enhance one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features (such as the eyebrows and eyelashes), add color to a person's face and can be used to change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature or object. Concealer is a cream or liquid product used to conceal marks or blemishes of the skin. Foundation is a cream, liquid, mousse or powder product applied to the entirety of the face to create a smooth and even base in the user's skin tone. Rouge, blush, or blusher is a liquid, cream or powder product applied to the centre of the cheeks with the intention of adding or enhancing their natural colour.Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels, and powders are used to color, fill in, and define the brows. Lip products, including lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner and lip balms.  Lip products commonly add colour and texture to the lips, as well as serving to moisturise the lips and define their external edges.

Cosmetics for decorative purposes for skin care are classified:  for the care of the facial area: eyelids (eye shadow, contour pencils, kayals, eyeliners, liners); eyelashes (mascara); eyebrows (pencils, eyebrow mascara); cheeks (blush); red lip rims (lipsticks, lip gloss, contour pencils); - faces in general (powder, foundation creams, primer). By the nature of the dispersed system: - homogeneous systems (true solutions) - paints; - heterogeneous systems: powders (powder, blush, eye shadow, etc.); According to the form of issue: - pasty (mascara for eyelashes and eyebrows); gel-like (hair gels); - shaped: compact (eye shadow, blush, powder); bruskovye (mascara for eyelashes and eyebrows); in the form of a pencil (eye shadow, lipsticks); in the form of a rod (lipsticks, eyeliners). Ingredients of Cosmetics for decorative purposes for skin care. According to the main types of raw materials used for its manufacture, decorative cosmetics are subdivided into products on a fat wax basis, powdery and compact, on emulsion and polymer bases. Adipose-based cosmetics are solid lipsticks, blush, eye shadow, eyeliner pencils, lips, eyebrows and other products. They are made from a mixture of synthetic and natural products: fats, waxes, oils, biologically active substances with the addition of dyes and pigments. Powdery and compact products of decorative cosmetics - powder, dry blush, compact eye shadow, which are finely ground powdered flavored mixtures of mineral and organic substances. Emulsion-based cosmetics are liquid products: foundations, bases, make-up bases, blush, lip gloss and balms, mascara and eyeliner. They are a homogeneous mass consisting of fatty components, water, emulsifiers, stabilizers, active additives, pigments and dyes. Polymer-based products - nail varnishes and enamels, base coatings, etc. They are solutions of polymeric film-forming substances in organic solvents with the addition of dyes and pigments, oils, vitamins and other useful additives.

36. Technology of foundation and powders.  Foundation is a liquid, cream, or powder makeup applied to the face to create an even, uniform color to the complexion, cover flaws and, sometimes, to change the natural skin tone The composition of the foundation Color pigments, foexample, zinc, titanium or iron oxides; Fats and oils of natural or artificial origin; Waxy substances; Emulsifiers; Preservatives.

Production. At the first stage, distilled water and oil components enter the reactor, which are heated to a temperature of 60-80 degrees Celsius, and then wax components already heated to the same temperature are added. The next stage is the introduction of color pigments, emulsifiers and preservatives. After that, all the components become a single liquid mixture - an emulsion. Then it is saturated with additional ingredients: vitamins, plant extracts and bioactive components. Then the resulting product is sent for quality control and only then transferred to the filling shop for bottling in containers for sale. Powder is a decorative cosmetic product in the form of a fine powder used to fix makeup, as well as as an independent product for leveling the color and, including, skin relief, previously a means for powdering hair on the head and wigs. Face powders generally come in two main types. One of which is loose powder, which is used to assist with oily skin in absorbing excess moisture and mattifying the face to reduce shininess. The other is compressed powder which conceals blemishes and maximises coverage It is produced in powdered, liquid and compressed compact form. Ingredients: talc, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin. The process of preparing crumbly powder is mainly reduced to weighing, mixing the components with subsequent sieving on sieves or corresponding mills, compact - to weighing, mixing and pressing. The process of preparing all types of powders (with the exception of creamy and liquid) is mainly reduced to mixing all its ingredients with subsequent sieving on sieves (having 3600 holes per 1 cm2) or mixing and grinding in appropriate mills, compact - to mixing and pressing. Liquid powder is obtained in an apparatus equipped with a frame-type agitator. The resulting suspension is packed on liquid filling machines or tube filling machines. Technological scheme of preparation of compact powder 1. Weighing ingredients 2. Mixing  3. Sifting   4. The resulting powdery mass with added liquid Magma and corrective additives is intensively mixed and further crushed in a centrifugal mixer 5. Sifting. Particles with a size of 3-20 microns are selected 6. Compaction 

7. Assembling the compact 8. Packing

37. Cosmetic preparations for decorative purposes for care behind the hair. General characteristics. Classification. The classification of decorative hair care products (styling) includes: preparations used before the hair is styled (foams, lotions, creams); preparations used during the hairstyle (waxes, toffees, fibrous wax, gels); preparations used for the hairstyle (hair sprays, sequins, colored gels, colored sprays, etc.). These types of drugs are also classified depending on the consistency, the principle of application and other factors. Lotions, or styling liquids, are more often used when twisting hair (dry or wet) on curlers. Hair dye is a composition that gives a particular color to the hair that is covered or soaked with it. During the coloring process, the chemical interaction of the coloring composition with the keratin of the hair occurs. Film-forming substances are polymeric substances that leave a flexible and well-glued film on the surface of hair and skin. Hairspray is a spray that is used to create and maintain a hairstyle for a fairly long time. Mousse for hair is a styling product that stylists use to create a basal volume. Hair gel is a universal modeling agent for water-based styling. Means of decorative cosmetics for hair care, depending on the cosmetic effect, are classified into means for: - hair color changes; - hair shape changes; - styling and fixing hairstyles.

38. Technology for the production of hair dyes. Hair dye is a means to change the color of hair for a long time. The technology of hair dyes is determined by the physico-chemical properties of the components of the formulation of the drug. The technological process of hair dye production consists of the following operations: preparation of soap-alcohol solution; dissolution of resorcinol; preparation of an aqueous solution of p-phenylenediamine;1. ө\mixing of components;packing of hair dye;2 

packaging of hair dye and hydroperite.

1. 39. Means for the care of decorative nails. Characteristic. Cosmetic effect. Nail care cosmetics include varnishes, nail enamels and nail polish remover. Nail polish is a means for manicure and pedicure, intended for coloring nails and giving them shine, is a suspension of pigments based on, which includes primary and secondary film-forming substances, plasticizer, solvents and other auxiliary substances.

Cosmetic products for cleaning nails ensure the removal of nail polish residues from the nail plate. According to the consistency of nail polish removers, they are divided into: liquid (ordinary and fortified) and creamy.Nail polish remover is a mixture of organic solvents with the addition of fatty components, oils, vitamins, bioactive substances, perfumes, dyes, intended for removing nail polish. As organic solvents are used: acetone, amyl acetate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate, a well as toluene and some alcohols - isopropyl, ethyl. Organic solvents, like the nail polish itself, degrease the nails and can eventually lead to their damage. To reduce the degreasing effect on the ail plate, fats are introduced into the liquid - mixtures of fat-like substances and fatty oils: castor oil, fatty alcohols, lanolin, etc. Most formulations use castor oil. Mink fat injected into nail polish remover forms a rapidly absorbing film on the surface of the nail plate, leaving no greasy traces, which contributes to the adhesion of the varnish. 40. Technological process for the production of nail polish Nail polish is a means for manicure and pedicure, intended for coloring nails and giving them shine, is a suspension of pigments based on, which includes primary and secondary film-forming substances, plasticizer, solvents and other auxiliary substances Preparation of nail polish consists of the following technological stages: - dissolution of the primary and secondary film-forming agent in organic solvents;  - introduction of plasticizer; - homogenization of the mixture (30-60 min) and maturation (48 hours);д - filtering the basics; - preparation of a solution of dyes in ethyl alcohol (with constant stirring for 2-3 hours); - introduction of a dye solution, pigments and homogenization into the base (6 hours);

- maturation of the varnish within 3 days;- packing, capping and labeling of the finished product.